Hadrian’s Wall Day 5 Chollerford to Heddon-on-the-Wall



Subtitle: Will Greg Make It to the End?

We woke up to more rain. Greg rolled back over while I patiently waited for the hotel to start serving coffee. Greg isn't looking forward to the walk today; blisters seem to be spreading on his feet overnight. As an over precaution, my feet have been wrapped with blister tape since the beginning. I thought the travel agent made it pretty clear we'd be walking long distances each day but it guess I should never assume anything.  I think I read that if you walk far enough, blisters are inevitable. Good thing I packed a supply of blister plasters and blister tape.

Getting ready, Greg announced, "I don't expect a huge downpour today," removing his heavy rain jacket from his day pack. Cringe. Now why did he have to go and say a thing like that?

For breakfast we went across the street to the Riverside Kitchen so we could grab lunch to go as well.

My fresh, hot scone with strawberry jam and clotted cream from Riverside Kitchen in Chollerford was heavenly

The day started out sunny and blue skies. "Give me the wind and overcast any day over this," says Greg. Not me, I will take heat and sunshine any day - but I agree it is more comfortable to walk along Hadrian's Wall when the sun is tucked behind the clouds.

View of the River North Tyne in Chollerford

If you lose your focus even for a second you miss the obvious path marker. We followed the dirt road for a few hundred feet. Rookie move to turn the wrong way on our 5th day.

We reached another of the path's "temporary diversion", this one, near the Stanley Plantation, not mentioned in the book because it just happened in December 2021. I didn't trust the person who marks the detours so I took the first semi-trodden path I found. (Our friends told us later that the diversion was very well marked.). It made for an adventure - like I was exploring a fern/tree forest! Greg is hoping it wasn't poison oak we were walking through but google says it isn't present in the UK.

The downed trees at Stanley Plantation caused a temporary diversion in the path

"I almost took a face plant. Stay on the trail, I am delicate," said Greg, as we forged our way through the forest.

We reached a restaurant along the path a little too soon for lunch but we stopped anyway because it is always a good time for a beer. And a toilet.

Today's segment walks right by The Errington Coffee House, about a 2 hour walk from Chollerford

At the next pub we reached we stopped for a late lunch at 2pm, unaware that it was about to begin pouring rain. Although we've seen less than 10 walkers today, we managed to run into some of our trail friends - who had just finished their lunch. It turns out we are sharing an accommodation again tonight!

We reached this pub  - Robin Hood - right on the path almost 4 1/2 hours into our walk.  We ate lunch on their picnic tables. 

For lunch I opted for the chicken pesto sandwich instead of cheese savory. Much better choice.

We moved inside the pub's garden tent when it started to rain. After Greg checked on all of his blisters, he put his head down on the table. I don't know if he was crying or praying or sleeping. Maybe all of the above.

17 1/2 miles today. The actual trail from Chollerford to Heddon was about 16 3/4 miles and then we had to continue to our B&B. As we arrived into town we saw our German friends catching a taxi from the pub - tonight they return to their home base in Chollerford.

Even though today we've walked the furthest along the path, it wasn't bad walking at all (says the person without the blisters). Today's segment was like a wall walk reprise - with a little bit of everything. There was a variety of scenery, toilets, pubs, livestock and its poop, each type of gate, and pieces of the Roman wall. I think we found the absolute worst part of the path - it is near Robin Hood Pub where you walk on an uneven, eroded embankment for at least a couple of miles. It is the kind of walking that either gives you blisters or puts those with blisters into agonizing pain.

The book's author gets so excited about this stretch of the path, calling out "lovely" trees and this "fantastic" vallum. Historians aren't quite sure what purpose the vallum, running 50-100 yards south of the wall, served.  Perhaps it marked a "military no-go zone."

Scenic views along today's walk

Red poppies run wild in this part of the country.  To me they appropriately signify remembrance and hope for WWI and WWII.

Blister boy managed to survive the day, grimacing with every step.  I'm not sure I could've endured that level of pain for so many miles!  My feet felt great as they had reached some sort of numb euphoria.

Our entire itinerary was set around the fluke that Hadrian's Barn had availability tonight. The owner said they are fully booked from March to October. Heddon-on-the-Wall is a choice stopping place but has very few lodgings.

Hadrian's Barn B&B, with our own private cottage, was a much-welcomed comfort on our journey 

Fortunately we didn't have to walk back to town for dinner because Greg never would have made it. He would have opted for trail mix. Instead we preordered home-cooked meals from our host.

On request, our host prepared dinners for us, similar in price to a pub but not nearly as tasty