Hadrian's Wall Day 4 Sycamore Gap to Chollerford



We took our time getting started today - eating breakfast, packing up our freshly cleaned laundry, and letting the rain from the morning finish off before we began. Today's walk competes with yesterday's - usually coming in tied for best views. Today's is supposedly harder but I think yesterday it was more difficult to reach all the hills at the end of the day where today we start with them. (None of the hills are "difficult".)

Our first stop was Sycamore Gap (again). There we ran into our new friends from our 2 nights in Carlisle. They had a rough go the day before, having gotten lost and ventured quite a bit out of the way in the stupid path detour through Gilsland. (They really need to repair the trail there.)

Sycamore Gap - this view just doesn't get old! 

Starting out the hills while we are fresh from our night's rest

Watch your step on top of Highshield Crags

Looking back at Crag Lough and Highshield Crags.  Regardless which direction you walk the path, remember to turn around for views!

Excellent views of the surrounding countryside

Broomlee Lough framed by Hadrian's Wall along Sewingshields Crag

Just beautiful!

Today there was absolutely nowhere to go to the bathroom, unless you want to go find one off the trail , so I didn't drink a drop of water. There were no toilets, through the crags there was always another hiker in sight or else you're in the wide open area along the roadside, and there was no vegetation other than grass. Today was the first time I have seen used toilet paper (several times) along the trail.

After the first few miles along the crags - the greatest part of the entire trail - for the next 3 hours "dull" is a good description of the path. However, I can't complain about being in England and walking through its pretty countryside. This is the first day we are not sharing the path with livestock yet clearly they are nearby because you literally cannot walk without stepping in poop.

There is no food available on this segment of the path so we ordered sandwiches from the hotel before we left. We were hoping for a bench but the best picnic spot we could find (near lunchtime) was some grass in a parking lot for Brocolitia. My odd "cheese savory" sandwich was shredded cheese in mayonnaise with carrots, red onions, lettuce - with the saving grace of yummy bread. As we packed up, the rain came through for 3 minutes which was long enough for us to get on our rain gear.

Cheese savory picnic lunch

The rain cell headed straight for us

Finally some entertainment as we get to a stile we need to cross over just outside of Chollerford. "I'm not going over," announced Greg as we walked up to the pasture of cows. We watched as they all gathered closer around us. Very curious creatures indeed! "Let's walk away," he said, prepared to walk 2 miles back and around the pasture. He said it precisely at the same time I hopped over the stile and into the pit of ferocious beasts 15 times my size. Greg followed closely behind me, mumbling that I went off and left him.

Outside of Chollerford the landscape gets a little more interesting

The cows swarmed the stile, lying in wait, as we prepared to step over it. "I'm not going over."

Our walk from Twice Brewed Hotel to The George Hotel in Chollerford was just under 13 miles. Being a short day, we continued beyond the hotel and just off the path to the remains of a Roman bridge.

The Chesters Bridge Abutment along Hadrian's Wall has the most preserved penis along the wall. I'm warning you now though, don't call it a penis! I nearly gave the lady at Birdoswald Fort a heart attack when I asked where the penis was. She looked horrified. "Phallus is how we refer to it around here". The worker behind me burst out laughing. (We never found the penis at Birdoswald Fort.) There are 59 known etchings of male genitalia (aka PENIS) along the wall. The Roman's believed that the phallus was the embodiment of a masculine generative power, and was one of the tokens of the safety of the state (sacra Romana) that gave protection and good fortune.

Phallus at Chesters Bridge Abutment in Chollerford, Hadrian's Wall

When we got to the bridge abutment and saw all the stones, I was a bit worried that finding the penis would be like finding a needle in a haystack. But I was determined.

Perspective to help you find the penis

The George Hotel is right along the Hadrian's Wall path in the scenic village of Chollerford

Our just reward for finishing another day of walking along Hadrian's Wall!

Our days are starting to blur together and Greg is getting confused between what we saw today, yesterday, or the day before. The bartender asked where we were headed. While I was trying to remember, Greg answered, "east".

My feet are a bit achy at the end of each day, but poor Greg's pinky toe is one big blister. He said he could definitely see how people quit when they get blisters. Uh oh. I'm growing a little concerned about how we will manage The Camino when we retire - how does your body survive walking every day for 4 weeks straight?

For dinner we went down the street to the Crown Inn. Delicious food and lots of beers on tap! And … sticky toffee pudding for dessert!

Our dinner of Fish and Chips and Sausage and Mash at the Crown Inn. I'll have to try making mashed potatoes with grain mustard - super yum!