Edinburgh - The Royal Mile and The World’s End

We've only been here one day and we are leaving. I want to preserve that perfect image of Scotland with no rain. I couldn't believe our luck!

Perched atop a series of extinct volcanoes and rocky crags and surrounded by rolling hills, lakes, and forests, Edinburgh is the capital of Scotland and is located in central eastern Scotland, near the Firth of Forth, close to the North Sea.

I noticed right away how easy it is to visit Edinburgh. The airport is simple and quite manageable. We had no problem hopping onto the tram into town. I love traveling and being exposed to foreign things - but today being in an English speaking country was a welcomed relief.

View of Edinburgh Castle from Princes Street Garden. The fortified birthplace of the city 1300 years ago, this imposing symbol of Edinburgh sits proudly on a rock high above the town.

We dropped our bags off at our hotel in the center of Edinburgh, right next to the luxurious Victorian Balmoral Hotel. Did you know that their clock runs a couple minutes fast to help train-goers catch their train on time? (It is located right next to the central train station.)  Or if you are a huge Harry Potter fan then you will know it as where J.K. Rowling finished writing the series with her last book Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows.

The ritzy Balmoral Hotel in Edinburgh

On our way to the Royal Mile, we passed by the Scott Monument in Princes Square Gardens.  Completed in 1844, the Victorian Gothic monument is the world's tallest tribute to an author, erected in honor of Scottish novelist Sir Walter Scott.

The Scott Monument stands 200 feet high and has 287 steps - except you can't climb it right now because it is still closed due to Covid. 

Today was about casually wandering around Edinburgh, particularly along The Royal Mile, one of the great streets of the world. No visit to Edinburgh would be complete without taking a stroll through the history, souvenir shops, and tourists along the Royal Mile. It runs from the Edinburgh Castle to the Holyrood Palace.

After the devastating defeat by the British in the Battle of Flodden (1513), the fortified city of Edinburgh was surrounded by walls to protect itself and its residents. They were restricted to the stretch of road from Edinburgh Castle to The World's End. No city in Europe was as densely populated – or perhaps as filthy; it was a living hell of smoke, stench, and noise. The people of Edinburgh believed that the world outside of these walls was the end of the world as they knew it. In fact, you had to pay to enter the gated city. Couldn't afford it? You couldn't leave! Therefore, those who were unable to afford the toll to regain entry were confined to Edinburgh for their entire lives.

The "World's End Pub" (a 16th century listed building) stands on what used to be known as the 'end of the world'.  When Greg ordered 2 Guinness beers the bartender asked "and what is your wife having?" But Greg must be jet lagged and half asleep because he couldn't even understand him - and he was speaking English.

World's End Pub made for a great place along the Royal Mile to sit and people watch.

Holyrood Palace is the official Scottish residence of the British Monarchy. Each year, Queen Elizabeth spends a week visiting Scotland, meeting Scots from all walks of life and hosting thousands at the Palace of Holyroodhouse in recognition of their good work. Today the palace is closed in preparation for the queen's arrival on Monday - kicking off 'Royal Week'.

Peeking through the closed gates of Holyrood Palace at the end of the Royal Mile. We will be back in a couple of weeks when it is open. 

Take a look at the gorgeous Victoria Street, the inspiration for Harry Potter's Diagon Alley.  

Greg and I have a peculiar yet thoroughly enjoyable tradition for catching some rest in the middle of the towns we visit. "Want to take a nap there? " I asked him - pointing to a grassy knoll. "I could take a nap there" he responded, pointing to the cobblestone at our feet. We were in the area below the castle called Grassmarket - once Edinburgh's site for hangings (residents rented out their windows for the view).

Poor Greg was exhausted from the flight. He didn't get to spread out across 2 seats and a husband on the flight.

As you get nearer to the castle, the streets running alongside The Royal Mile and castle have steep slopes. One of these alleyways - called Fennel Steps - is tucked into the Grassmarket area and offers the most breath-taking view of Edinburgh Castle. 

My trip research didn't prepare me for how breath-taking (and "instagramable") the view from Vennel Steps really is! Although you can see the castle after about 50 steps, don't miss the best view from the top!

For dinner we went to Dishoom, a delicious Indian restaurant. I loved its vibe - reminiscent of a British India perhaps like a scene out of Indiana Jones.  If you go, be sure to either make reservations or be prepared for a long wait. 

At Dishoom we had yummy black Dahl, chicken ruby, naan, okra fries, and samosas 

Dishoom warns that its Horniman's Old-fashioned (rum, pineapple and bitters) "may lead to lack of censorship, inflammatory statements, and ultimately, deportation."  We had the good sense to stop at one. 

We actually are leaving tomorrow - no, not deported!  We are headed to England (with promises of lots of rain). But we will be back to Scotland in a week! We saw enough to know that Edinburgh is a great place to visit.  We got a wee dose of kilted bagpipe players, adorable Scottish accents, and historic buildings - and are looking forward to seeing more when we return to Edinburgh for the last 3 nights of our trip.